One-Sheet Plywood Desk (Midcentury Modern)

A few years ago, I saw a picture of a sleek, utilitarian desk made from a single sheet of plywood. Now that I am finishing a small remodel, I need a desk for my new home office, and I decided to recreate that desk.

My final design is very sturdy and material efficient. It is simple and useful. The angled legs and the hole in place of a drawer pull give it some visual interest.

Give it a try! It will be easier to build than you think.

1 4' x 8' Sheet of 3/4" Plywood - (I used UV Prefinished Birch)

1 Pair of 18" Full-Extension Drawer Slides

1 1/4" Pocket Screws

1 1/4" Trim Screws

1 1/4" 18-Gauge Brad Nails

Masking Tape

Wood Glue

220-Grit Sandpaper

The first step in building your desk is to break down your sheet of plywood into component parts. Cuts need to be accurate, straight, and clean. For these reasons, I strongly recommend using a circular saw guide. (I built my saw guide using this great Instructable.) If you use prefinished plywood, like I did, you should also consider placing masking tape on both sides of the line you will be cutting. The masking tape helps to prevent splintering as you cut and prevents you from leaving pencil marks on your project.

I have added 2 cut diagrams to the images attached to this step. One of them contains colored lines where cuts should be made. For ease and material efficiency, I recommend making your cuts in the following order:

1. Green - Be sure to make your cut long enough that you will cut all the way through the bottom of the plywood.
2. Red - Same reminder as above.
3. Blue
4. Orange
5. Purple

(You will notice That I did not make the purple cut shown on my diagram. That is because I decided to make the bottom of my desk drawer out of some scrap 1/4" prefinished plywood that I happened to have laying around. I did this because I wanted to use the leftover 3/4" plywood from this project on a different project.)

If you don't have a table saw, don't worry! If you are patient and careful, you could easily accomplish this step using the circular saw and guide that you used to break down the plywood in Step 1. However, if you do have a table saw, it will make this step quicker and easier.

1. Start with the plywood section that you cut out with the red and blue cuts (refer to the color-coded cut diagram in Step 1). It should measure around 48" x 30".
2. If you choose to do so, cover both sides of the plywood with masking tape along the future cut lines.
3. Set your table saw fence to a cut width of 3 1/2".
4. Place the 48" factory edge of the plywood against your fence and rip 3 - 3 1/2" strips of plywood.
5. Adjust your fence to a 3 3/8" cut width and rip a single strip.
6. Adjust your fence to a 3" cut width and rip 5 strips. (This should use up the entire section of plywood.)

You should be left with:

• 3 - 3 1/2" x ~48" plywood strips
• 1 - 3 3/8" x ~48" plywood strips
• 5 - 3" x ~ 48" plywood strips

Like the previous step, you can cut out the desk legs with either a table saw or a circular saw and guide. If you take the circular saw route, I recommend that you simply apply your masking tape, draw your lines, and cut out each leg, individually.

If, like me, you choose to use a table saw, follow these steps.

1. Select the plywood piece that you cut out with the green and orange cuts. It should measure roughly 25" x 29 1/4".
2. If you choose to do so, apply masking tape to both sides of the panel, parallel to the 29 1/4" side, about ever 6 1/8".
3. Set your table saw fence to a cut width of 6 1/8."
4. Running the factory 29 1/4" side along the fence, rip 4 - 6 1/8" strips.
5. Apply masking tape to both sides of each strip, running diagonally along the cut line for each leg.
6. Draw your angled cut lines. (The legs will taper so that the top width is 5" and the bottom width is 1". The angle of the taper is roughly 8 degrees.)
7. Cut out the legs. If you are comfortable cutting freehand on your table saw, go for it! I am not. So, I made a very simple jig out of a piece of scrap 1/4" plywood and some scrap pieces of 1" x 2" pine. Here are the steps to make the jig:
   1. Make sure that your scrap piece of plywood has 2 straight, parallel edges.
   2. Place the scrap plywood on top of one of your leg blank so that one of the straight, parallel edges is flush with your angled cut line.
   3. Clamp the scrap plywood to the leg blank and turn it over so that the leg blank is on top of the scrap plywood.
   4. Push your scrap 1x2 pieces against the corner of the leg blank for a tight, right-angle fit, and nail the scrap 1x2 pieces to the scrap plywood.
8. Voila! You have a crude tapering jig!
9. Holding the top (5") 90-degree corner of the desk leg, tightly, into the 90-degree pocket of your jig, adjust your table saw fence so that the blade lines up perfectly with the angled cut line on your leg blank. (The angled cut line should now be parallel to your table saw fence and perfectly in line with your table saw blade.)
10. Carefully use the jig to cut out all 8 leg pieces.

*** I made the mistake of cutting out the 6 1/8" x 29 1/4" blanks, then attempting to make the angled leg cut with a circular saw and guide. As the photos show, I was forced to make the jig to correct my bad cuts. It worked out very nicely! Be sure to pass all 8 leg pieces through the table saw on your jig to make sure they are uniform.

I chose to leave the plywood edges exposed on my desk for visual interest and a sense of texture. If you don't like the look, you can use edge banding to cover them. However, if you are leaving your edges exposed, you should sand them before assembling the desk.

To assemble the legs:

1. Clamp the components together for ease of sanding the edges. (This will also give you a good idea of their uniformity. If some pieces seem too large, use your jig to pass them through the table saw again.)
2. Fill any voids in the exposed plywood edges with wood filler or natural-colored wood putty.
3. Sand the exposed plywood edges with 220-grit sandpaper. A palm or 1/4-sheet sander can be very helpful for this task.
4. Lay out all 8 of the leg components, and choose which plywood edges will be best for exposure on the front of the desk.
5. Lay out the legs as they will be assembled, ensuring that they are oriented properly. (2 vertical plywood edges should be exposed on each side of the desk, and make sure that the 90-degree corners are matched up. See the photos.)
6. Apply wood glue to the vertical plywood edge that will NOT be exposed.
7. Clamp the 2 leg components together in the proper orientation.
8. Fasten the 2 leg components together with 1 1/4" 18-gauge brad nails.
9. Repeat the process until all 4 legs are assembled.
10. Wipe away any glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth.

While the glue on the desk legs is drying, you can start assembling the desk drawer. The drawer bottom should measure 33 1/2" x 18." Start by making sure that your drawer bottom is nice and square. You can tell if it is square by measuring from corner to corner, diagonally, in both directions. If the measurement is the same for both directions, you know the drawer bottom is square.

To assemble the drawer:

1. Identify the shortest 3"-wide strip that you cut in Step 2. (Theoretically, the strips should all be the same length, but accidents happen...)
2. If you will be using 3/4" plywood for the drawer bottom, use your table saw (or circular saw and guide) to rip this 3"-wide strip down to 2 1/2" wide. If, like me, you are choosing to use 1/4" plywood for your drawer bottom, you can leave the strip at 3" wide.
3. Make sure that one end of your plywood strip is square.
4. Place the square end of the plywood strip at one corner of the short side of your drawer bottom so that the plywood strip and the edge of the drawer bottom are perfectly flush.
5. Make a pencil mark on the plywood strip to indicate the length of the short side of the drawer bottom.
6. Cut along the pencil mark, so that you are left with a piece of the plywood strip that is exactly the same length as one side of your drawer bottom.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 for the opposite short side of the drawer bottom.
8. Select the 2 longest 3" wide plywood strips from the pieces you cut in Step 2
9. Repeat Steps 3-6 for the 2 long sides of the drawer bottom. However, be sure to subtract the width of the 2 side pieces that you have just cut. (The best way to do this is to hold the 2 side pieces together, flush with one short side of the drawer bottom. Then, butt the piece you are "measuring" up against the side pieces, and make a pencil mark at the edge of the long side of the drawer bottom. See photo.)
10. If necessary, rip down the 2 long plywood strips you have just cut to length to the same width as the short sides of your drawer. (If you are using a 3/4" plywood bottom, this width should be 2 1/2". If you are using a 1/4" bottom, this step can be skipped.)
11. Drill 2 pocket holes on each end of each of the 2 long drawer sides. (I did NOT do this, but I wish I had. In the photos, you will see that I used trim screws to attach the drawer sides.)
12. Assemble the drawer sides with 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws so that the 2 - 32" pieces are butted up to the inside edges of the 2 - 18" pieces. Orient the pocket holes outward. (The front pocket holes will be covered by the drawer front, and the rear pocket screws will be hidden by the desktop.) Make sure that edges of the drawer sides are neat and flush.
13. Attach the drawer bottom with 1 1/4" 18-gauge brad nails and wood glue.
14. Reinforce the drawer bottom with 1 1/4" trim-head wood screws. Be sure to pre-drill before driving the screws so that you don't split anything. Use a number of screws that makes you feel comfortable. I recommend at least 3 screws on the short ends and 5 on the long ends.
15. Wipe away any glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth.

Consult the instructions on your wood glue bottle, and give your desk legs sufficient time to dry. When the glue is dry, you can begin attaching the legs to the desktop.

1. Drill 2 pocket holes on each of the 2 upper inside faces of each desk leg for a total of 4 pocket holes per leg.
2. Choose the best plywood edge on the 48" x 23" desktop to be the front of your desk.
3. Choose the best face on the 48" x 23" desktop to be the top of your desk.
4. Fill any unsightly voids in the exposed plywood edges of the desktop with wood filler or wood putty.
5. Sand the exposed plywood edges on the desktop with 220-grit sandpaper.
6. Choose the 2 appropriately-oriented legs with the best vertical plywood edges to be your front desk legs.
7. Place the desktop upside down (good side down) and place the desk legs in their appropriate positions (the best legs corresponding with the best plywood edge on the desktop).
8. Use glue and 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws to attach the desk legs to the bottom of the desktop in all 4 corners, so that the legs are flush with the corners of the desktop.
9. Wipe away any glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth.

1. Select 2 of the best-looking 3 1/2" x ~48" plywood strips
2. Using the same measuring method that you used on the drawer components, measure the inside distance between the legs on the short side of the desk.
3. Cut the 2 sides of the desk from 1 of the 3 1/2" strips, to the appropriate length, which should be a hair over 21 1/2".
4. Drill 4 pocket holes in each of the desk sides. Spacing of the pocket holes is not crucial, here, as long as they are roughly equidistant for equal pressure.
5. Apply glue to the appropriate edges of one of the desk sides.
6. Clamp the desk side in place, both vertically, to the desktop, and horizontally, to the insides of the legs.
7. Attach the desk side to the underside of the desk, inside the legs, with the pocket holes facing inward, using 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws.
8. Repeat steps 5-7 for the other desk side.
9. Use the other 3 1/2" x ~ 48" strip that you chose in step 1 to measure the distance between the inner faces of your desk sides on the back of the desk.
10. Cut the strip to length, which should be a hair over 45". This is your desk back.
11. Drill 6 pocket holes on the desk back.
12. Apply glue to the appropriate edges of the desk back.
13. Clamp the desk back in place, both vertically, to the desktop, and horizontally, to the insides of the legs.
14. Attach the desk back to the underside of the desk, inside the legs, with the pocket holes facing inward, using 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws.
15. Use 1 1/4" trim head wood screws to attach the desk sides and desk back, firmly, to the insides of the desk legs.
16. Wipe away any glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth.

At this point, you should still have 2 - ~48" x 3" plywood strips and 2 - ~16" x 3" plywood strips (offcuts from the long drawer sides).This is where those pieces come in!

For appearance and strength, I wanted this desk to have a bottom. However, for material efficiency, I designed this desk to have a bottom frame instead of a full bottom.

To assemble the bottom frame:

1. Using the ~48" strips as their own measuring tools, mark the distance between the insides of the legs on the front and back sides of the desk. It should be a hair over 46 1/2".
2. Cut the long strips to length.
3. Now, clamp the long strips in place, horizontally to the underside of the desk, so that they are tight against the insides of the legs and flush with the desk back. (Refer to the photos if you are confused.)
4. With the long strips firmly clamped in place, use the short strips to measure the distance between their inside edges. Be very careful here. You NEED the short strips to fit very firmly between the long strips to give the bottom frame strength and rigidity.
5. Cut the short strips to length. CAREFULLY! They should end up a hair over 15 1/2" long.
6. When you are satisfied with the tight fit of the bottom frame, drill 2 pocket holes on each end of the 2 shorter strips.
7. Use a face clamp to hold the bottom frame pieces flush with each other, and attach them with glue and 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws.
8. Wipe away any glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth.
9. Set the bottom frame aside. Do not attach it to the desk at this point.

I must admit that when I planned this project, this step is the one that I found the most intimidating. However, when the time came, it was actually pretty easy. Take it slow and carefully, and you will be fine!

1. Gather 3 offcut of 3/4" plywood (the same material you are using to build the desk).
2. Clamp these 3 scrap blocks of wood together.
3. Now clamp the joined blocks to the desktop near one of the corners of the opening at the front of the desk, where the drawer will go.
4. Use your remaining 3 1/2" x ~48" plywood strip to measure and mark the distance between the inside of your 3 clamped wood scraps and the inside of the desk back. It should be about 20".
5. Cut the strip to length.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 for the opposite side of the desk drawer opening. These 2 pieces will be your drawer slide mounts.
7. Drill 2 pocket holes on each short end of the drawer slide mounts.
8. Drill 3-4 pocket holes on one of the long sides of each of the drawer slide mounts. (Make sure all pocket holes are on the same face of the drawer slide mount.)
9. Draw a pencil line, longways, down the center of each of the drawer slide mounts (on the face with no pocket holes).
10. Next, draw a pencil line, longways, down the center of the outside of each of the 2 short sides of your desk drawer.
11. Refer to the installation instructions that came with your drawer slides to determine which piece of the drawer slide will mount to the drawer and which will mount to the desk. Typically, the fixed piece mounts to the drawer, and the extendable piece mounts to the desk.
12. Position the appropriate piece of the drawer slide on the side of the drawer, with the front of the slide flush against the front of the drawer.
13. Make sure that the penciled center line is visible through the centerline screw holes on the drawer slide.
14. Mark the positions where you will install screws.
15. Remove the piece of the drawer slide, and drill pilot holes at your pencil marks.
16. Install the drawer slide on the drawer. Repeat steps 12-15 for the opposite side of the drawer.
17. Clamp a piece of scrap plywood at a right angle to the drawer slide mount. (Refer to the photos if you are confused.)
18. Position the appropriate portion of the drawer slide on the scrap piece and the drawer slide mount so that the penciled center line is visible through the centerline screw holes in the drawer slide.
19. Mark the positions where you will install mounting screws.
20. Drill pilot holes for the mounting screws.
21. Screw the drawer slide to the drawer slide mount.
22. Repeat steps 17-21 for the remaining drawer slide mount.
23. Join the drawer slide mounts to the drawer so that the pocket holes on the slide mounts are directed toward the top of the drawer.
24. Turn the drawer and slide mount assembly upside down and place it on the center of the underside of the desktop, with the drawer oriented so that it can open properly.
25. Measure the distance on each side of the drawer slide mounts, in order to make sure it is centered.
26. Butt the drawer slide mounts firmly against the inside of the desk back.
27. Use a square to make sure that the slide mounts are square with the underside of the desktop and square with the desk back.
28. Clamp the drawer slide mounts in place, ensuring that the drawer can slide in and out, freely.
29. Attach the slide mounts the underside of the desktop using 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws.
30. Attach the slide mounts the inside of the desk back using 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws.

Breathe a deep sigh of relief!

Okay... There is more to this step than just installing the drawer front.

You should have at least 1 scrap piece of 3 1/2"-wide plywood that 5 1/4" long. Hopefully, you have enough 3 1/2"-wide scrap for 2 pieces of that length. These will be used to cover the front edges of the drawer slide mounts and the empty spaces on either side of them.

1. Measure and mark scrap pieces of 3 1/2" wide strips that will fit between the inside of the front legs and the outside of the drawer slides. These should be about 5 1/4" long.
2. Cut these pieces to length.
3. Drill 2 pocket holes on one of the 5 1/4" sides of each piece.
4. Insert the pieces into their locations.
5. Attach the pieces to the underside of the desktop with 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws.
6. Attach the pieces to the drawer slide mounts with 1 1/4" coarse thread pocket screws.
7. Attach the pieces to the inside of the front desk legs with 1 1/4" trim head screws. These pieces are going NOWHERE!!!
8. Place the 3 3/8" wide plywood strip across the front of the desk where the drawer slides out.
9. Trace the angled leg lines onto the plywood strip. These angles should be approximately 8 degrees.
10. Cut the plywood strip to length for a drawer front. It should be a trapezoid. In order to fit tightly into the drawer opening, it should be 1/8" narrower than the opening. (An easy way to accomplish this is to cut on the outside of one of your pencil lines and on the inside of the other.)
11. Remove the drawer from the desk.
12. Measure and mark the center of the front side of the drawer.
13. Measure and mark the center of the trapezoidal drawer front.
14. Clamp a piece of scrap wood directly behind the center mark on the front side of the drawer.
15. Clamp a piece of scrap wood directly behind the center mark on the front side of the trapezoidal drawer front.
16. Use a 1" forstner bit to drill a hole in the center of the trapezoidal drawer front. The forstner bit will make a nice clean hole. The block clamped to the back will help to prevent tearout.
17. Use a larger forstner bit to drill a hole in the center of the front side of the drawer. I used a 1 3/8" bit.
18. Reinstall the drawer.

This is your last chance to sand the exposed plywood edges on many of your components. Take the opportunity to sand the edges of your bottom frame, drawer, and drawer front.

To install the bottom frame:

1. Drill evenly spaced pilot holes 3/8" from the outside edge of your bottom frame, around the entire perimeter. The number of holes is up to you, but I recommend at least 3 for the short sides and at least 5 for the long sides.
2. Place your bottom frame inside the desk legs, on the underside of the desk, so that the pocket holes are facing inward (hidden from view).
3. Use clamps to pull the frame tight against the insides of the legs and flush with the vertical side and back panels of the desk.
4. Fasten the bottom frame in place with 1 1/4" trim head screws. You could certainly reinforce this joint with glue, but I chose no to do so, just in case I want to remove the bottom frame in the future.
5. Drill pilot holes in the bottom frame along the center line of the drawer slide mounts - at least one screw per end of each mount. I used 2 per end.
6. Fasten the bottom frame to the drawer slide mounts with 1 1/4" trim head screws.

Your desk is done! Fill in any visible nail holes with color-matched wood putty, and you have a useful piece of new furniture, made with your own hands.